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Belfast to Ballycastle


Ireland 2007–Belfast to Ballycastle

In honor of St. Patty’s day tomorrow, here is another excerpt from my trip to Ireland in the fall of 2007.

Here we are still on Sunday Sept. 30, going from the Newgrange area to Belfast. We gassed up before Northern Ireland (as opposed to the republic) as they use pounds and that’s even more expensive (at least $2 CDN to the pound). It was the first time gassing up and we couldn’t get the gas flap open on the VW Polo or whatever that piece of crap was. No levers, no buttons and the gas jockey was stymied too. Finally he asked one of the other guys and it turns out you just give it a good push and it pops open. Duh.

The only difference crossing the border, which was indiscernible, was that the speed limits changed from kilometers to miles, much like driving from Canada to the US. However, the speedometer did not show miles, not that it mattered. If it said 60, people went 120, no matter whether km/h. I just flowed with the flow.

There are fairly major highways between Dublin and Belfast so it was smooth sailing and little getting lost though my sister would laugh her head off every time we saw a sign that said Heavy Plant Crossing. This usually wasn’t on the main highways but we later found out it meant lumber trucks crossing, so in a sense, heavy plants. Our three maps of Ireland were deficient in different ways. The one from CAA only showed major routes and everything is a minor route in Ireland. The best map had roads going where they didn’t, roads missing, and sites not exactly where they really were. You cannot have too detailed of a map for Ireland, even if it is a small country.

So, we drove into Belfast with no city map, a scary prospect after the maze of Dublin. But we found downtown (reminded me of Edmonton with the type of streets and construction going on), drove in circles for a bit and then parked, by sheer luck, across from the tourist information center (a large “i”) so we did some internet posting, then got a map and yes, you guessed it, it was not accurate for Belfast. The woman drew lines to the Crown Liquor Saloon, the only place we were going to see as we were now shy of hanging around in the big cities. But of course she said go this way on a street that turned out to be a one way the other way. And you know what one ways are like when you’re lost. You’re always going the wrong direction. And we drove around and around and around and couldn’t find this world famous Victorian saloon.

Finally I stopped by a taxi and told my sister to ask him. He was so nice that he actually just led us there and then pointed. And still we drove back and forth, because the saloon was under renovations and we couldn’t see it for the scaffolding. Arrrghh! But we found it and it was truly beautiful, with warm wood booths and pillars. The pillars had little carved lions and griffins holding shields and in all, there were only about six booths with lovely wooden doors and stained glass. Each booth had a metal plate that said Matches. We were talking to this man and woman and he said that at the turn of the century that was where people struck their matches when smoking. Ireland (both republic and north) are smoke free environments inside establishments, just like BC.

This guy also regaled us with politics and told us the only reason Dublin was considered dirty was because the tourists litter, not the locals. I kept my mouth shut but later saw what the Irish college crowd is like in Kilkenny and the streets were littered. Belfast itself was very modern in the downtown core. We got lost (of course) getting out and the area we were in was a little rougher, but no sign at all of all the chaos of recent years gone by.

We then drove through to Ballycastle. Bally means “bay,” so we passed many a place name Bally this and Bally that. It is a resort town and we did the usual, park and go into a pub for a drink. This was very much a sports bar and rugby is on every screen (or is it soccer–I mix them up). There was a man at the bar could have been my friend Terri Fleming’s brother; similar hair and skin color, and looks. The Flemings (once Flemish of course) ended up in Ireland by way of many routes and the Scots.

On the outskirts of the town, right beside a golf course are the ruins of Bonamargy Friary. Built around the early 1500s it houses many graves of the MacDonnells, the past chieftains of Ulster and Antrim and is still in the same family to this day. The most famous was Sorley Boy (an Anglicization) and his brothers who ruled and repelled the English. The MacDonnells married the MacQuillans to quell the past Lords of the Route. Turns out the one headstone I took a picture of is rumoured to be the Black Nun of Bonamargy’s resting place, Julie MacQuillan who was said to have made seven prophesies.

From the pictures you can tell it was dusk and we weren’t having any luck with finding the B&B the pub recommended. We went back and tried to call three places but duh, you dial first, then stick the money in and if you’re not fast enough, it cuts you off. And then you have to keep adding coins to keep talking. We goofed so bad the pub owner helped us, and one B&B just called back because we got cut off. Eventually in full darkness we found Clare house, after having to knock on someone’s door and scare them in the dark. We unpacked and went back to town for dinner. Some pubs have restaurants upstairs and I don’t know the name of the place we ate at but it was very modern in design and high end. It was a Sunday so there weren’t a lot of places open. A bit pricey but very good.

It was late and we were tired so we drove back after eating and hit the sack.

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Driving Me Crazy: Merging

I would love to have a job where I didn’t commute. This is the place (the road) where the self-centeredness of people becomes evident, and aggressive, distracted or stupid moves can be worth someone’s life.

Today’s aggravation is merging and merge lanes. A merge lane has one of two signs (in BC). One will say “Merge.” The other will show two lanes merging into one. The protocol, the rule, the law (in some areas), in fact,  good common sense says to do the following.

Merge does not mean come to a full dead stop. Merge does not mean follow the car right in front of you and butt in too. Merge does not mean cut off a person merging into the traffic flow. Notice that word “flow.” Merge lanes are designed to try to keep the traffic flow steady. Many areas are now extending those merge lanes even farther. The Number 1 Highway between Kensington and Gaglardi (Greater Vancouver) and along the I405 (Seattle and surrounding areas) have lengthened merge lanes to try and alleviate traffic flow problems.

Merging means oncoming traffic and merging traffic alternates, one by one into the flow. If you’re on the highway and in the right-hand lane, you have two choices: either move into the left-hand lane to facilitate the merging people, or slow down so that they can merge without crashing into you. Speeding up and driving side by side is pigheaded and stupid. Pay attention to what traffic is doing and try and make it a dance, not a traffic accident.

If you are the person merging, then merge, slowly, safely, coming up to speed if possible. Don’t stop but continue pulling ahead in the merge lane, shoulder checking and looking in your sideview mirror. Do not merge at the very entrance where the ramp joins the highway, but continue pulling ahead in the merge lane. This does two things: alerts the cars on the highway that you are merging and allows for the flow of the cars behind you who then won’t be backed up and stopped. It completely wrecks the flow if someone decides to merge too soon onto the main thoroughfare.

Traffic going east on the number 1 where it went from North Vancouver over the Ironworkers’ Memorial Bridge into Vancouver is the only place where I’ve ever seen merging work flawlessly. People do that commute everyday. Whether they still merge politely, I don’t know. Sometimes there is just too much traffic for the flow to be anything but slow, in the merge lane or on the highway. But if people try to pay attention, to alternate cars from both lanes and adjust their driving accordingly, it will certainly keep the pace going much better and keep tempers down. Presume that it’s the law to be polite and then just try it for fun.

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